(MILLBURN) Talking to the three owners and two workers at Patchwork Gardens feels a lot like talking to a family. That is no surprise, considering the community supported agriculture (CSA) model that makes up part of the farming operation.

Patchwork Garden was started five years ago by Eric Williams, Ian Stutt and Megan Joslin. Today, with the help of Julie Williams and Thor Hansgen it is thriving, as is the family. Ian and Megan are married and have a one-year-old son who can often be seen playing by the vegetable patch, another ingredient that lends itself to the family flavour of the farm.

In addition to the CSA, they also sell at the Kingston Farmers Market and wholesale to a few shops and restaurants.

CSA, which can also stand for community shared agriculture, is a phenomenon that is slowly catching on across North America. Consumers who join a CSA pay a flat fee once a year to the farmers, who in turn provide fresh, locally produced foodstuffs. The farmer has a guaranteed income for the year and the consumer has a guaranteed source of seasonal vegetables. Farmers also earn more by cutting out the middle man and selling directly to consumers.

We have 26 people signed up, and it makes up about a fifth of our business, explained Eric Williams. It's becoming more popular now with increases in food costs.

They get a fresh and constant supply of the best in-season produce in their region, said Eric Williams.

Joslin highlighted the educational side of a CSA operation, as consumers learn about the ups and downs of farming and the limitations of their region.

People become aware of the realities of seasonality. Every year there are bounties and difficulties and learning that is part of becoming connected to your food, she noted.

You also get to know the excitement of waiting for real tomatoes, and then you get excited for the next thing that's coming, she said, emphasizing the positives of embracing a seasonal diet.

Although the CSA aspect of their farm is thriving, Erik Williams, Stutt and Joslin are reluctant to expand it much more, emphasizing that a personal connection was a big part of the appeal for them.

Part of our CSA group is that we give suggestions for cooking and we have a farm day where everybody comes up to chat, explained Erik Williams.

CSAs first developed in Japan with the advent of mechanized farm practice and increased urbanization. The phenomenon spread to Europe between the two world wars. It first came to North America in the 1970s when two farms in New England adopted the practice. Some of the largest operations in the US have over 1,000 shares.

Today there are CSAs across the country, including a number of large operations serving the Toronto area. In addition to Patchwork, there are several CSAs close by.

Ironwood Gardens and Root Down Organics near Ganaoque, Root Radical on Howe Island, Vegetables Unplugged on Wolfe Island and Ravensfield in Maberly all operate on a similar model.

Everyone at Patchwork has an interest in seeing local food and family farms thrive. Both Erik Williams and Stutt are heavily involved with the National Farmers Union local.

The direction we've all been heading is establishing a source for local food and a local food system, explained Erik Williams.

When Williams and his partners talk about a local food system, it goes beyond CSAs. It means building a network of growers, processors and consumers. What would such a network look like?

I think it looks like it did eight decades ago explained Stutt. It means dairies and mills and canneries and lots of farms.

And all from local owners, added Joslin.

Part of that infrastructure is education. Even the largest CSAs are limited in scope, so engaging more people in the supply side of the local food equation is a must.

The three Patchwork owners learned their trade on a farm in Durham region that takes part in an agricultural apprenticeship program called CRAFT, which stands for Collaborative Regional Alliance for Farmer Training. All three would like to see a CRAFT program established in eastern Ontario.

As they look back on their first five years, the folks at Patchwork Gardens seem as happy as ever. At present they are expanding, adding a cold storage shed and seed-sorting area.

I love every aspect of it, remarked Erik Williams. The work, the planting, the managing, the marketing and book keeping, I just love it.

Stutt echoed Williams, adding, Meaningful work, that's the main thing.

To check out what is growing at Patchwork Gardens, give them a call at 613-353-1373, or visit them at the Kingston Farmers Market. For more information on community supported agricultural operations in Ontario, have a look at the Ontario CSA Farm Directory website at www.csafarms.ca. To learn more about collaborative farm training programs in Ontario, visit www.craftontario.ca.

Article by Anthony S.C. Hampton

Copyright © 2008 Frontenac This Week
http://www.frontenacthisweek.com

Article posted on csafarms.ca with permission by the author.